It’s On.

Surfing is often a game of numbers. Especially when we’re talking south swells, West Coast surfers can turn into bug-eyed, overzealous mathematicians. But when the local buoys in Orange County peaked late Thursday at three feet at 20 seconds, then shifted to four feet at 18 seconds, everyone place their calculators away — it was clear something serious was in the water. And around here, there are only a few spots that can really handle that type of long-interval energy. Fortunately, there was a touch of leftover windswell mixing in, so certain SoCal breaks ranged from excellent/epic to closed-out and scary.

Newport’s infamous Wedge pushed 20-foot faces, and a crew of regulars attacked it with reckless abandon. Taylor Pai bravely joined the antics and was amazed at all the visual stimulation OC’s most mutant wave serves up.

“It was refreshing watching all kinds of boogieboarders and Spencer Pirdy flying every which way — up, down, left, right, into the sand, into the sky,” Pai laughed. “I’m just glad the lifeguards didn’t have to come save me because that would’ve been embarrassing. Please don’t tell my mom.” (Sorry, Mrs. Pai.)

The energy rolled right up into LA County as well, with groomed lines reaching

as far north as Santa Cruz and beyond. Meanwhile, some pros in the know — and those with some spare time on their hands — headed further south to greet the swell head-on.

“I was already in Cali and I hadn’t been to Puerto in ages so I was excited to get back down there and get some surf,” Hawaiian hellman Shane Dorian clarified. “It was a excellent swell for sure. Puerto is basically a closeout on 90% of the waves, but it’s hollow and there is tons of power. I just assume I’m going to get pounded on every wave I catch. It’s nice that there isn’t any reef though. I still have sand in my ears!”